Cuban Burger

A Cuban Burger cheeseburger and fries.

A Cuban Burger cheeseburger and fries.

HARRISONBURG, Va. — Cuban Burger, which is at 70 Water St. across from the parking garage and next to Beyond, opened last week.

The burgers are 80 percent beef and 20 percent pork (pork is big in the Caribbean; pork fat also is the best fat) and typically topped with fries. I, however, had mine nude, with just cheese and ketchup because that’s how I’ve eaten cheeseburgers since I was very small, and I refuse to evolve.

I also passed on the fries-as-condiment option because fries came on the side — and out of vain concern for my figure. It’s beach season.

The menu is small and controllable, and the aforementioned side of fries — all of them long, slender and the most inviting yellow — was nearly an entree. I ate them in two sittings because, psychologically, it seemed less gluttonous. The first was at the restaurant, and the second was that night at my apartment and out of a makeshift Cuban Burger to-go “box” molded from aluminum foil.

The restaurant interior is stark, with concrete floors, a chiaroscuro paint scheme and matching, sturdy tables. It’s dark inside — but in an atmospheric way conducive to drinking and talking to pretty girls. I just hope they make mojitos.

The Cuban Burger interior.

The Cuban Burger interior.

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